Day 298 – 311: Pura vida Costa Rica

Posted on by Patricia & Dustin

March 13 – 26, 2025

In this segment we close out our visit to Nicaragua with a delightful visit to Granada, the oldest city in the Americas, established in 1524, and then move onto Costa Rica an ecotourism paradise that brought us closer to nature and had us camping again.

  • Day 298 – Leon to Managua (Nicaragua) – 87k/373m climbing
  • Day 299 – Managua to Granada – 54k/471m 
  • Day 300 – Layover @ Granada
  • Day 301 – Granada to Ometepe – 74k/325m
  • Day 302 – Layover @ Ometepe – 53k/624m
  • Day 303 – Ometepe to Rivas – 5km (ferry back to mainland Nicaragua)
  • Day 304 – Rivas to Sonzapote (into Costa Rica)
  • Day 305 – Layover @ Sonzapote – 4k (for grocery run)
  • Day 306 – Sonzapote to Liberia – 67k/641m
  • Day 307 – Liberia to (past) Nicoya – 93k/422m
  • Day 308 – Nicoya to Puntarenas – 70k/418m
  • Day 309 – Puntarenas to Jaco – 65k/676m
  • Day 310 – Jaco to Dominical – 108k/283m
  • Day 311 – Layover @ Dominical

Total trip distance: 8,429 miles (13,570 km)
Total trip climbing: 379,624 feet 
Countries: USA, Canada, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica
Number of flat tires (entire trip): 21 (almost all caused by small wires from steel belting of truck tires)
Number of flats (this segment): 1 (woo hoo!)

Granada, Nicaragua

We rode out of Leon, Nicaragua toward the city of Granada with a stopover in Managua. From what we’ve read these three cities have interesting political history with both Granada and Leon vying to be the capital of Nicaragua at one point in time. Apparently, Leon was the more liberal city and Granada was more conservative. A compromise was reached and Managua, in between Leon and Granada, was selected as the capital.

Patricia rides past a beautiful garden with lion statues – we’d seen many lions throughout the town…and then it clicked Leon means lion 🙂
Cycling towards Managua we saw this erupting volcano – even the locals were watching this one!
We passed several horse-drawn carts carrying wood toward Managua. With this one we were wondering if it was driverless but once we passed it we noticed the driver side-saddled on the right side.

Leaving Managua was the craziest traffic we’d experienced since Mexico City. We rode for at least 10 miles with our “heads on a swivel” going with the flow but trying to be aware of everything around us. There were traffic control lights but they meant nothing – the traffic police at each intersection directed the flow.

Getting out of Managua was the toughest traffic we’d experienced since Mexcio City – this heavy traffic went on for miles.
On our way to Granada we stopped for a break at a restaurant with a wonderful view over Lake Masaya – the juice in the picture was starfruit juice!
For lunch in Granada we found a bagel shop – the owner, Vincent, was delightful and took great pride in his eatery. Food was delicious 🙂
Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral Church in Granada, Nicaragua.
Guadalupe Church in Granada, Nicaragua.
In the main town square we met a gentleman who took great care of the pigeons – he set out bowls of water for them as bird baths and called them to be fed.

The day after our arrival, when walking around Granada, we were approached by a man walking with a cane and his foot in a cast (from a moto accident) who offered us a boat tour of the Islets de Granada. After some negotiation we agreed to do a tour not knowing what to expect. We ended up on a private boat tour, all in Spanish, that was not so eco-friendly but we enjoyed it nonetheless. Our captain baited a monkey onto the boat and pulled flowers for Patricia. Typically our style is to appreciate nature with limited human disturbance – win some, lose some…we went along with the experience and had a nice time.

The boat tour was a family affair with grandpa as our captain and his grandson as first-mate. We were the only two guest on the boat.
The first-mate sitting on the edge of the boat made Patricia nervous, its unlikely he knows how to swim!
Our captain knew how to attract the monkey onto the boat with rice & beans and a fruit.
It was fun to watch the curious monkey evaluate the surroundings before eating some of the food put out for him.
The captain picked flowers for Patricia
Patricia wears her “sombrero” from a flower with a very long stem made by the boat captain.

Ometepe, Nicaragua

We cycled onto Rivas and then ferried out to the double volcano island of Ometepe situated in Lake Nicaragua, Central America’s largest freshwater lake which was once considered the better trans Central American canal location before Panama was selected. This lake is also famous for freshwater sharks! 

We had to purchase three different tickets at three different locations – one for being foreigners, one for the bicycles, and one for the ferry – yet another example of Nicaraguan bureaucracy! 

Our ferry to Ometepe, a volcanic island in Lake Nicaragua. To take this ferry we had to purchase three different tickets at three separate booths.
Bicycles ride on the ferry to Ometepe. Volcan Conception, an active volcano, can be seen in the background.

Our ferry had certainly seen better days yet safely transported us over the 15km crossing. The wind caused 1 meter (3 ft) waves that made us feel like we were on an ocean and not a freshwater lake. We arrived on the island and quickly found the lovely, family run hostel we had booked ahead. We settled in and then went for supplies (food!) in the town just a few blocks away. 

Our hostel room on Ometepe didn’t provide blankets, only a sheet. We haven’t had a blanket since Guatemala!
Dustin enjoys the pool at our hostel – our garden/pool view room was directly behind him.
Eggs in Nicaragua – 30 eggs for $4.85. Right now the price of eggs in the US is very high as a result of bird flu.
Sunset on Ometepe Island looking down a pedestrian street toward Lake Nicaragua.

The next day we bicycled unloaded, only carrying critical repair gear, around one of the island’s volcanoes. In total we biked 53 km (over 30 miles) and made several stops along the way to get a feel for island life. Most of the tourists rent scooters and stay off the 10km unpaved section of the loop so we received many curious looks (and several “thumbs up” of encouragement). 

Patricia rides around Volcan Conception on Ometepe Island in Nicaragua – behind her the volcano is currently cloud covered.
Riding with the bulls – Patricia cycles with a herd of bulls being moved to a different pasture by a farmer on a motorcycle.
Second breakfast at a local coffee shop on Ometepe. The coffee is grown and roasted on the island & the iced coffee used coffee ice cubes – first time we’d ever seen this!
At the coffee shop they had a pin map for visitors – they said we were their first customers from Alaska so we had to place a pin 🙂
On part of the “island bicycle tour” we came very close to Lake Nicaragua.
Volcan Concpetion mid-day with most of its cloud cover lifted.
The Ometepe Airport offered an unobstructed view of the volcano & interestingly, with limited flat areas, the airport runway crossed the only major road on the island.

Nicaragua to Costa Rica border crossing

We’d read horror stories about leaving Nicaragua & crossing into Costa Rica – in some reports people had spent 5 hour at the border doing Nicaraguan exit and Costa Rican entry requirement. So when we arrived we didn’t know what to expect but we smiled and nodded a lot and were very lucky we weren’t behind a busload of people. Ultimately we were in and out in 30 minutes, although Nicaragua did made us x-ray all of our bags *again* in order to leave the country.

We made it to Costa Rica!

After crossing the border we pedaled out to our accommodation (very) early but the hosts were understanding that the border didn’t take as long as we’d expected and let us check into our “budget” (read no AC) room. Later we would find out that our room was typically used for personal/small group tour guides while their clients stay in the much larger, nicer, and air-conditioned cabanas. We were delighted our “budget” room had everything we needed including a nice covered patio where we were able to enjoy being surrounded by Costa Rica’s natural resources.

This ecolodge, Cabanas Canas Castillo, was *amazing* – it was run, for almost 30 years, by a couple from Switzerland and it was truly an ecolodge – we didn’t feel greenwashed! They allowed the animals to be observed in their natural environment without baiting them, as we had experienced in Nicaragua. We saw two sloths (a mom & a juvenile), tons of spider monkeys, howler monkeys, and an amazing variety of trees while hiking trails created by the owner. The monkeys played in the trees just feet from our patio – sorry no pictures they move so darn fast!

We had only planned on staying one night but at 5:15 am the next morning we sent them a message asking if we could extend our stay. The room was available for another night but we were going to have neighbors. OK – we’ll take it! It was so nice to spend some time in nature – we felt like we’d been spending a lot of time in busy metro areas of Central America so this time was delectable. We talked a bit with our tour guide neighbors (they actually owned the German tour company) and learned that this ecolodge was one of the best in Costa Rica!

Arriving at our ecolodge super sweaty from biking what does one do? Go on an even sweatier hike, of course!
Goats at Cabanas Canas Castillo ecolodge observed while hiking one of their tough nature trails.
A sloth in the tree right outside of our room! Picture was taken through a scope set up by a guide – we initially spotted the sloth and then were quickly overtaken by a small guided group of tourists. Our consolation prize was the guide used Patricia’s phone, through the scope, to take this photo.
Dustin chills in the hammock as one of our new German Shepard friends keeps watch.
Sunset at Cabanas Canas Castillo Ecolodge
On our second day the two German Shepherds took us for a hike on their favorite trail 🙂
Costa Rica’s water is potable! We had not had potable water since leaving Arizona, USA – this was awesome. Also check out the photographer in the upper left of this picture 🙂

After two relaxing days at the ecolodge we were back on the road headed south and it proved to be one of our toughest riding days because of insanely strong crosswinds. We were both blown off the road a few times, and were so happy to finally arrive in Liberia, Costa Rica and have respite from the wind.

At a wind stop Patricia bought a fruit “refresco” drink in a bag from a cooler in the trunk of a car – desperate times call for desperate measures. You cut or tear the corner and suck it down – absolutely cool & delicious 🙂
Dustin checks out bundles of unsold clothes from the US in Liberia, Costa Rica – we spoke with the salesman and learned sometimes the bundles can be all new, all used or part new & part used.

We’ve found Costa Rica to be the most expensive place we’ve traveled in Latin America so far – it is heavily touristed by North Americans & Europeans thus increasing the cost. When we spoke with German owners of a tour company that has been in Costa Rica for 10 years, they said the costs have gone up by 30% in the past 4 years! As a result of higher costs we modified our behavior to stay within budget – that meant back to camping & cooking for ourselves more!

Back to camping – our first camping in almost 100 days! Notice the black blobs in the trees – these howler monkeys were our neighbors for the night…and howl they did!
Crossing from the Nicoya Peninsula to Puntarenas, Costa Rica on the ferry.
The ferry had a super nice (read: Air Conditioned!) passenger lounge with drinks for sale. Here Patricia is so excited to get a drink with ICE!
We took 175,000 out of the ATM – feeling rich until we did the math and realized how expensive Costa Rica was haha.

For the next few days we made our way along the hot and humid Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Most mornings the alarm went off at 4:30am and we were pedaling by 6am to *try* and stay out of the hottest part of the day.

Our lunch stopover looking out at the Pacific Ocean 🙂
A crocodile, as seen from the safety of a bridge, suns itself. This bridge is famous for the crocodiles – we say about 10 in this area but this one was the closest (and biggest – maybe 15′ long) to photograph.
Cyclist wearing a machete and carrying a long pole for cutting down palm seed pods. Bottom reads “Drive with caution” & top of the sign reads “I also want to go home”. We’ve found most of Latin American very tolerant of bicycles because so many locals use this method of transportation.
A tractor pulls palm seed pods to the oil processing facility.
Patricia is giddy for a rest-stop lunch. “El casado” literal meaning “married” brings together all the favorite foods of Costa Rica. Rice, beans, plantains, salad & a protein (here salsa chicken).
Costa Rica’s version of Neapolitan – just replace the chocolate with lime. It was actually really good 🙂
Our bungalow in Dominical (with air conditioning!) was a delight
The road leading to our bungalow is covered with lush vegetation. As we were close to a river, the birdlife was fantastic!
Pretty flower next to our bungalow.
Already our 2nd set of tires is wearing thin as evidenced by the blue under layer starting to show. These tires now have almost 4,000 miles on them since they were changed in Phoenix, Arizona. We’ve ordered two new tires through a bicycle shop in Panama City – hopefully everything works out!

So far Costa Rica has delighted us with amazing natural experiences and kind people – we’ve been gifted several different fruits and even a full lunch! The phrase used quite often is “pura vida” meaning pure life or simple life – people here just seem happier. Costa Rica has been a very interesting place with no standing army, dedication to the environment and a significant investment in education (50% greater than world average).

We’ll continue to make our way south through Costa Rica and crossing the border into Panama in the next few days. Once we hit Panama we essentially head east until Panama City and then head north to the Caribbean coast to catch our boat to Columbia. Fingers crossed all goes as planned 🙂

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39 thoughts on “Day 298 – 311: Pura vida Costa Rica”

  1. Wow! What a wonderful experience for the two of you. I really look forward to each edition of your journal. Thanks!

  2. What a lovely segment to your journey. Lots of wildlife and friendly people. Continue to stay safe and enjoy your adventures.

    1. We’re really enjoyed the wildlife too – just this morning we got up before sunrise for some amazing birding. We have an app that listens for the birds and we had 25 different species 🙂

  3. So excited to be able to hear of your experiences. Love the animals you are seeing and love the people you have met along the way.

  4. You are both amazing!! Your endurance certainly has been tested and you passed!!! Thanks for sharing!

  6. You appear much more at home in the trees and tent even though the howling must’ve been a challenge for sleeping.

      1. The howlers woke Dustin??? But his hearing is crap. They must have hit a high frequency that almost hurt?

  8. Hi, not sure if I’ve commented before. I’ve really enjoyed hearing of your adventures. I thought I’d heard Costa Rica had a 6.5 earthquake sometime within the last week but now I can’t find info. Definitely thinking of you when I heard that. Thanks for sharing.

    1. Thanks Karen – hmmm…I’m gonna have to look up this earth quake. OK – I found it…looks like it was off the Pacific coast – we didn’t feel anything haha. We’ve certainly seen the evacuation route signs for a possible tsunami. We’ve cycled past several active volcanoes and stayed on an active volcano island in Nicaragua – it’s been amazing to see!

  10. I’ve heard about those monkeys in Costa Rica!!
    I’m somewhat of a foodie, so I do enjoy your pictures and descriptions of food!

    Hoping your crossing to Panama goes well.

    Jeanette

    1. Glad you like the food pictures – a family member said they like seeing the food pictures as well to know we’re getting good meals 🙂
      Hopefully only two more days until we cross into Panama! Oh and tell Rand that Costa Rica accepts US dollar as payment almost everywhere but does not accept any $1 coins 🙁

  11. So happy to read your post again. I had just been thinking it had been quite awfully since you had written. Love being on your adventure with you.
    Praying for Blessings, safety and good health on your journey.

  12. Hey, so nice to see your trip exceeding expectations. Winter here giving up ever so slowly. Last weekend for Moose, Arctic Blast for Skiland, a Ski Patrol event. Fun to witness your small celebrations for ice, ice cream, shade, fresh water, and the simple things. 13 hours of daylight here interspersed with the aurora. Your generous dose of photos and narrative keeps your place and answers questions here. Strength and honor…

  13. I continue to enjoy your adventures from the ease of my recliner. I do have concerns about the many drinks I see with ice in them, since not all water everywhere is fit for foreigners to consume. And peels left on cucumbers and such. How do you avoid tummy troubles?? (I am glad that it seems for the most part you have been.) Stay safe.

    1. We typically have “stomachs of steel” regarding food/water. Patricia got sick once on the Baja of Mexico and we both had parasites in Southern Mexico. In general we are very careful with water (buy drinking water and use for cooking/teeth brushing) and try to eat at cleaner looking restaurants. Now in Costa Rica the water is drinkable 🙂
      Some people recommend avoiding certain foods (ie. don’t eat anything that’s not peeled etc) but for a trip of this length that’s really not possible – we eat everything!

  14. I so enjoy your travels. I have a niece that lived in Costa Rica had a small coffee plantation for about 10 years. They built a couple of high end cabins and a pool. My daughter and her husband visited and they just loved it they brought home coffee for me and some lovely earrings and a necklace ♥️

  15. What an incredible adventure you are having!! The distance you’ve gone blows my mind! Be safe, enjoy& & k ow our prayers go with you!

  16. What an amazing experience, absolutely love hearing of your travels! The site and views are absolutely stunning! The wildlife is also so spectacular, especially love the sloth! So thankful you are sharing your journey with us! May God continue to keep you both healthy, strong and safe!

  17. It’s so delightful to read about your adventures! This update brought back wonderful memories of our trip to Costa Rica. I remember the monkeys cavorting in the trees outside of our B ‘n B and the words of caution about the Capichan monkeys that were bold to approach parked cars in one scenic area. And, yes, the howler monkeys are VERY loud.
    Keep on traveling safe. Thinking of you often and praying you continue to find good people, good food, and good experiences all around.

    1. Thanks Karen – we certainly did enjoy seeing all these monkeys 🙂 I guess we just missed the Squirrel Monkey to hit all 4 types in Costa Rica…oh well we can’t see everything 😉

  18. I sure do love all the pictures you take, along with all the explanations. What an adventure!

  19. Have you not needed any blankets because the climate is warm, or is it more of a “supply your own” blanket expectation at these places you have stayed?

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